FROM KATHLEEN FUNG: My journey of yearnings. The last time I was in Srinagar in the fall of 1989, Kashmir was closing its doors to the world due to civil unrest. We stayed in wooden houseboats on Lake Dal, listening to the splash of the oarsmen propelling their pencil thin boats laden with exquisite handmade crafts to various houseboats where tourists were eager to buy. Peering out from the windows of our houseboats, we caught sight of the shikaras, gondola type boats, gliding the still waters of that inky black lake, the silence broken by our cooks preparing bed tea from green tea leaves, milk, a pinch of salt, pistachios and flakes of almonds. Looking out on Lake Dal, the morning unfurled with views of snow-clad mountains that dated back to the Precambrian era, when earth was just forming.Since the G-20 Tourism meeting in Kashmir in 2022, there has been a huge influx of tourists to Kashmir. This summer after more than three decades of being banned, Shia Muslims gathered by the thousands to celebrate the first months of the Islamic lunar calendar, one of the holiest events of the year. The hotels and roads have been upgraded, and the economy is roaring back, thanks to the tourism sector. We are delighted the US State Department has lowered the security level to TWO, giving us the green light for travel. Far Fung Places is ready to travel once again to Kashmir!For as long as I can remember, the Deccan Plateau—that huge expanse of land between the eastern and the western ghats (mountains) of India—and Madhya Pradesh, with its natural beauty and heritage sites, have always fulfilled a secret yearning. This time I am returning to the Bandhavgarh National Park, for a wild tiger safari, which has one of the highest concentrations of wild tigers in India (60-70 tigers in its forests). In March the tall grasses will have withered, making it easier to track and spot these magnificent animals. We’ll experience the Indian jungle with the people who do it best: the luxurious Samode Safari Lodge.Another place that begs me to return is the Golden Temple of Amritsar in the affluent state of Punjab, the agricultural powerhouse of northern India.At first glance the legendary 17th-century Golden Temple, the holiest Sikh temple in India, seems to float above a sacred moat. A glistening procession path encircles the stunning two-story marble frescoed temple, which rises to a gilded dome created with 1,500 pounds of gold. Inside, master artisans fashioned exquisitely carved doors inset with ivory panes and inlaid walls with emeralds, rubies, sapphires, malachite, and cobalt blue lapis in floral designs. There is no other place in the world quite like the Golden Temple of Amritsar!For a big dose of local flavor, I’m including Holi, the Festival of Colors, marking the arrival of spring and the victory of good over evil. It is a time when people come together to forget their differences and celebrate with sheer enthusiasm and exuberance. What better place to celebrate this festival than at Khajuraho, with its ancient temples and stunning architectural beauty, giving us a glimpse into the diverse art and architecture of Northern India. Join me and only ten other fellow travelers for a unique cultural, wildlife, religious and exploratory trip that includes going to Kashmir after being closed for more than 40 years.
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